Forever Green

FAQs

Why do EP Henry Pavers make the ideal pavement?

Our pavers are the ideal product for freeze/thaw environments. Proper installation of the product results in a pavement that is rigid, yet flexible. The joints between pavers allow the walkway, driveway, patio, etc. to move without cracking. In addition, they can be "unzipped" to allow for repairs or access to utilities. Unlike asphalt, pavers are virtUally maintenance-free. By definition, concrete pavers have a minimum compressive strength of 8,000 psi (about 3 times stronger than regular poured concrete) and a maximum water absorption rate of 5%.

	*Why are they called interlocking concrete pavers?*
It is the system that makes them interlocking concrete pavers, not necessarily the shape. When installed properly, the combination of the pavers, bedding sand, edge restraint and joints and causes them to interlock, allowing them to work as a unified, flexible pavement.

	*Does the color go all the way through the paver?*
Most EP Henry Pavers (other than Coventry and Bullnose) are manufactUred with the Durafacing process which concentrates an extra dosage of cement and pigment on the wear layer. You'll never wear through this layer over the lifetime of the installation. Our non-Durafaced pavers have pigment throughout.

How do I detennine how much modified stone base material and sand I'll need?

As a rule of thumb, use a minimum of 3"-5" of base material for walkways, 6"-8" for patios, and 8"-12" for driveways. The sand setting bed should be 1" thick. One ton of modified stone or sand will cover 100 square feet at 2" thick. Using a 10' x 10' (100 square feet) patio as an example, you would need 1/2 ton of sand for the setting bed (1" thick) and 3 tons of modified stone for the base (6" thick). You'll need some additional sand (about 5%) or two bags of EP Henry PolySand for the joints between the pavers.

Someone recommended that I use a fabric under my installation. When and where is it used?

EP Henry recommends a separation fabric (e.g., Mirafi's 5OOX) under all paver installations. The fabric is laid on top of the compacted soil in the excavated area and keeps the aggregate base material from working its way into the soil subgrade. This is especially important where the soil contains a lot of clay. At a cost of pennies per square foot, the separation fabric provides an insurance policy against base failure.

	*Can EP Henry Pavers be used for my driveway?*
Absolutely! For residential driveways, 8"to 12"of compacted base material is recommended. A standard 2-3/8"thick paver can be used for light vehicular (cars and pickup trucks) applications. A herringbone pattern is most suitable in these situations.

Tell me about the sand setting bed...

The material for the bedding layer should be coarse concrete sand. Do not use stone dust or screenings; they do not allow the pavers to "seat" properly and do not allow for drainage. The sand should be an even 1" thick layer. Do not compact the sand setting bed. Do not mix portland cement into the sand used for the setting bed or the joints between pavers. It defeats the flexibility of the system, and it cannot be cleaned off the surface of the pavers.

How do pavers compare with patterned or stamped concrete?

Patterned concrete pavements are merely slabs of concrete that are embossed with a pattern. Therefore, they are prone to the same problems with freeze/thaw cycles, namely cracking and spalling. We guarantee that EP Henry Pavers won't crack or spall; you cannot obtain a similar guarantee for stamped concrete. Stamped concrete requires expansion joints every 10 feet or so, which are very distracting in some patterns. Also, unlike EP Henry Pavers, patterned concrete pavements don't allow access to underground utilities or the ability to make repairs. At virtually the same price per square foot installed, EP Henry Pavers are clearly a superior choice.

	*What are the advantages of sealing my pavers?*
Sealers offer three advantages: they help resist stains, enhance the color, and bind the sand in the joints to make it difficult for weeds to germinate. Sealers, however, are topical products and must be reapplied regularly (generally every 3-5 years). Only water-based sealers can be used in NJ and NYC.

	*Will weeds grow between my pavers?*
Weeds and grass result from seeds or spores blowing into, and lodging in, the joint sand. This can be minimized by adding SandLOCK to your sand or by sealing the pavers or mixing a pre-emergent granular weed killer into the joint sand. If weeds do appear, a spot vegetation killer (such as Round-Up TN) can be used and will not damage the pavers.

	*What can I do if my pavers are stained or damaged?*
One of the advantages of pavers is that individual units can be removed and replaced in these situations. Remove the sand around the paver and then use two flat head screwdrivers to lift the paver out. Rocking the paver gently in a back-and-forth motion will facilitate removal.

What can you tell me about snow removal and my pavers?

Pavers can be plowed and shoveled just like asphalt or concrete pavements. In fact, the chamfered edges and joints around the pavers promote melting of snow and ice. A plow with a rubber edge is recommended. Do not use sharp objects to chop ice as they can damage the pavers. Both sodium chloride (rock salt) and calcium chloride will remove snow and ice but can harm the pavers (and any concrete surface for that matter). Safe Thaw Ice Melter is an effective and safe de-icer for your paving stone installation.

	*I have an existing concrete walkway that's in pretty good shape. Can I lay pavers over it?*
While not the preferred method, pavers can be laid on top of existing concrete walkways. Two issues must be addressed. First, the grade will be raised by about 3" (the thickness of the pavers plus the bedding sand). This is particularly critical if any doorways are involved. Second, if the existing concrete slab should raise or drop with freeze/thaw conditions, then the pavers will do the same.

	*How can I remove moss or mold from my pavers?*
Try Clorox diluted in water (10 parts water to one part Clorox). Be careful not to get it on other plant material. Keep in mind that there is nothing that will keep it from growing back if it's in a shady, damp area. For a more pennanent solution, you will need to correct the moistUre and shade problems that are encouraging the moss or mold.

How about using EP Henry Pavers on my pool deck?

Not only do EP Henry Pavers make an attractive pool deck, but they also provide a slip-resistant walking surface. Pavers aCtUally are better than poured concrete around pools from the standpoint that the joints will take on moisture and leave the pavement cooler under foot. Uke all products that are used outdoors, lighter colors will tend to stay cooler as they reflect the sunlight. Furthermore, our Bullnose Pavers make a nice pool coping. Make sure the base material around the pool is well compacted before installing pavers. Safety covers can also be Installed over pavers with the use of special anchors.